Life in Amman - Week One

I've officially lived in Amman for a full week!!  It's amazing how quickly all of this has happened. Just three weeks ago I was walking across the stage grabbing my diploma. How is that already a distant memory?

Life is very, very easy for me here. My usual routine includes waking up, making some breakfast, and hopping into a cab to go to the University of Jordan. I primarily do my research at this university, as well as at ACOR (American Center of Oriental Research). This last week was dedicated to learning the basics of the research process - lots of flipping through microfiche slides and reading relevant books and articles. Basically I'm looking through thousands of newspapers from the 1920's to present for advertisements that incorporate Islam in some way. The idea that I'm investigating is that in this culture where identity is defined by religion in so many ways, religious symbols are used to sell products and services to Muslims. Buying "Islamic" products further perpetuates the religious identity. Once all of this background research is done Sarah will turn it into a book!

This weekend has been really busy, starting with packing and moving out of our apartment. The place we were living in turned out to be pretty busy with people frequently moving in and out. We did a little apartment shopping and settled on an incredible one-bedroom just above a bookstore off of Rainbow Street. So our new place will be in the same neighborhood that we love, but it will be all our own. In the interim (the apartment is not available until June 21, and we're leaving for Jerusalem on the 18th) we are staying with the father of Sarah's friend in a fantastic home. Homestay experience? Check.

On Thursday night Sarah took us to Mecca Mall (one of 4-5 giant malls in Amman) to buy abayas so that we could attend mosque on Friday morning. When we arrived we went upstairs, removed our shoes, and quietly sat at the back to observe. Women and men are, of course, separated during their time in the mosque. The room for women is 1/30th the size of the men's room (which actually extends into the outdoor courtyard) because women are not even technically supposed to attend mosque to pray. Most stay at home. The entire experience lasted no longer than 30 minutes - but is actually broadcasted throughout Jordan (the mosque that we went to is the King Hussein Bin Talal Mosque). Here we are after the prayer in our abayas, walking through the mosque, and in the cab later.

Saturday morning Savannah and I attended an orientation at Qasid - the language school where we will take a colloquial Arabic class. The orientation covered a lot of basics about taking taxis and how to get water. Totally knew it all. After this Sarah picked us up and we headed towards the Dead Sea, making stops at the Church of the Map in Madaba and Mount Nebo. 

mosaic of the Middle East

view towards the Dead Sea and Jerusalem beyond

When we arrived at the Dead Sea it was all I could do to keep myself from running right into the water. We got day passes at the Dead Sea Spa Hotel (30JD w/15JD food credit included) and floated around. I'm not sure I can adequately describe what an odd feeling it is to float in the Dead Sea. You're just going to have to try it for yourself...

Next we did the mandatory mud lathering. I'm pretty sure this is one of the only socially acceptable ways to rub mud all over your body in public...

Santa Barbara? Is that you?

Since arriving last week I've had a crash course on Amman and feel more than ready to take on this summer! I've already experienced so much: traditional wedding, Dead Sea, mosque, taxi, falafel...the list goes on and on. I feel so insanely lucky to be here, to experience all of this, to have the support of my family and friends for all of my ideas and plans. This is one crazy life I'm living.

Next up: Jerusalem June 18th-21, new apartment June 22nd, skydiving over Wadi Rum June 26th